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LEARNING


Gauge is something you see on yarn skeins and in most patterns for both crochet and knitting. It is a measurement... essentially how many stitches will fit within a horizontal inch (or 2 or 4 inches) using the specified yarn weight and hook / needle size. Also, gauge typically specifies the number of rows that will fit within a vertical inch as well, but I find that if you get the horizontal stitches per inch right, the rows tend to themselves (this applies to baby blankets like those on Cali Chic Baby and projects with little shaping... for clothing row gauge matters.)


Why do I have to care about gauge? Very simply, if you don't check gauge, you will be knitting and crocheting blind hoping the project turns out the correct size, without knowing if you are close or way off until you are done, or nearly done. If you don't enjoy starting ov



er or being disappointed with your results compared to the pattern design, then ignore gauge at your peril.


So what three things (mainly) affect gauge? The yarn weight, the crochet hook or knitting needle size and the "tension" you crochet or knit with. Some knit/crochet loosely and some more tightly. In either case, try to at least be consistent... compensations exist for either loose or tight to achieve gauge. If you are too loose and your gauge has too few stitches per inch, go down a hook / needle size or two until you achieve the target gauge. If you are too tight (most common) and your gauge has too many stitches per inch, go up a hook/needle size or two until you achieve gauge.


To check your gauge, follow the suggestion of the pattern for making a sample swatch (for example Stockinette stitch for knitting or sc block for crochet) and measuring. Then adjust your hook / needle as described above if necessary. In "extreme" tension cases only, you may need to try altering your tension style or even change yarn weights (if an option).


Which gauge should I follow - yarn or pattern? Short answer, the pattern! The gauge on the yarn label is only a suggestion as is the hook / needle size recommendation. The pattern designer will provide the gauge (and hook / needle size) that best suits the pattern they have created using these same parameters. To get the same results as the pattern promises, always follow the pattern gauge.

stitch markers

Stitch markers are a handy and even essential tool for marking where you are, where you want to get to, or where you want to remember in both crochet and knitting. They are small rings, plastic, metal or otherwise, that you insert in stitches you want to mark by location.


When and why to use stitch markers:


At the beginning of a round or row to mark pickup points, for counting rows, to note color change locations and many other reasons.


To mark pattern repeats, particularly in lacy edging (mark those corners!). Cali Chic Baby crochet patterns will usually have a chain in each corner of the starting round with each successive round corner building off this first corner chain. If you can't see it your edging can get off track.


To mark where you will increase or decrease to aid in counting.



To note where to begin special stitches


To mark a reference point where you will count to or measure from, for example.


Stitch markers are invaluable and worth remembering to use liberally throughout your projects to make all counting or reference point locating easier and stress free. Let's face it, those stitches get harder to see each year, so let stitch markers rescue your eyes, your brain (with math) and your overall project success!


Circular knitting needles are not just for knitting in the round. They are also a miracle tool saving you pain in your wrists, arms, shoulders and back when knitting flat! That's right... use circular knitting needles to "take a load off" larger projects like baby blankets (my favorite), throw blankets, shawls and so on.


Larger projects are also a real pain to try and fit on straight needles, which not only makes them heavy but all bunched up. Why not do yourself a favor and take the pain out of the project by choosing a circular needle of a size appropriate to your larger project. I use 32" size primarily for my knit baby blanket designs but have also used 36" and even 40" for throws.


You also don't want to go overboard and have a length that's too long and impractical to load a small number of cast on stitches. But if you are using super bulky weight yarn and/or cast on north of 60 stitches, consider circular needles instead of straight. Your project weight can simply rest in your lap as you knit away, enjoying your project and joyfully noting your progress instead of the twinge in your wrists and the dull ache in your shoulders!



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